Friday, 6 December 2019

Sea views - Happy Saint Nicolas day!


Today is Saint Nicholas' day 
Wishing lots of health to all those who bear the name of Saint Nikolas the Miracle-maker and everyone who id associated with the sea in any way 
The background information about the day and the saint:
Since it is too long a story for one post, go check the detailed information on my blog. If you don't know who that saint is, check out here:
http://bistrastoimenovaphotography.blogspot.bg/…/happy-sain…
More about the celebrations (old post but the info is still current) - see here:
http://bistrastoimenovaphotography.blogspot.bg/…/happy-sain…
The Crossroads point:
Chora Sfakion is the biggest town in the remote region of Sfakia, Crete. It is so isolated, that very few roads lead to and from it and it is the closest big settlement to the famous Samaria Gorge. This region borders the south coast of Crete and the landscape resembles a semi-desert land. No trees outside the town, just barren hills and high mountains and ravines, as far as the eye can see. And the ink-coloured sea. Sorry, got poetic here.
Point is that the sea is indeed with the colour of ink as the shores are quite steep there - given the fact that Sfakia region (the former Sfakia prefecture) covers the area where the highest mountain on Crete is located (the Lefka Ori range, which translated from Greek means 'White mountain'). Summer is quite dry but in winter snow and rain and sea rage.
The people of Sfakia are known to be the most rebellious of all on Crete. Throughout the Ottoman domination, legend has it that this area was never even conquered. The deep gorges that end somewhere deep into the mountain offered the perfect shelter for the locals. This is also the only place in Crete (not sure if not the whole of Greece) where the Venetians built a fort not to protect themselves from invaders from the sea but to fend off the attacks of locals.
More about that - in subsequent posts as this story is too fascinating to tell in just a few sentences.
Tourist information:
Chora Sfakion is a popular tourist destination and easy to find due to the influx of tourists that comes here each year to hike the Samaria gorge. Most people pass it by on their way to and from the ferry. It it totally worth at least half a day as the place is incredibly beautiful 
There are signs from the main roads BUT the nearest airport is at Chania so you'll need a car (or to take the bus, if available at all) to get here. The trip is totally worth it, trust me 
The story behind the shot - on Bistra Stoimenova Photography page 

Thursday, 5 December 2019

Djavola varos


Silent witnesses
The Devil's city (Djavola varos), Serbia

The Crossroads Point:
The Devil's city is one of the popular places for a trip in the country of our western neighbors. The place is about 300 kilometers from Sofia and looks quite like Melnik or the Stob pyramids phenomenons. The nearest town is Kurshumlija and this is the most famous sight to see. 

The Serbians have taken care of the visitors and you can find almost anything in place - from a toilet (don't laugh, this is something you cannot find at each and every rock formation you visit) to cafes and small chapel. The walk to the place is also quite pleasant. The entrance fee is quite small and you can stay for as long as you like there.

The place itself is known for its poisonous water. I'm not kidding, the concentration of heavy metals in it is so big, that it is not potable, nor fit for washing and kills everything in its path. Water is even acidic and if you get closer, it lets out a strange smell and makes you dizzy (take my word for this, no need to try it yourself as well). Even the trees around her are very strange, like enchanted monsters. The place looks like an haunted forest, indeed. 

The legend:
The Legend of the place invented by the locals is also not to be missed. Followers from Bulgaria can see it in the video on Bistra Stoimenova Photography page (I decided to play the tour guide, so it's better to hear it from me). For anyone who doesn't speak Bulgarian, here we are:

Once, there was such a prosperous village in the land. So rich and full of happy people, that even the Devil himself was envious. And he decided to put an end to the wonderful time the villagers were having. So he poisoned the water in all wells of the village as well as the river that ran near it (some variants of the legend claim it was a witch that acted on the Devil's orders). And the villagers did go mad. So mad, in fact, that they decided to wed a brother to his sister. It was pure madness and incest but no one seemed to notice it. As the wedding preparations went on, a fairy wanted to save them. So she prayed to God to stop this madness. But God didn't say a thing. The wedding started and the procession with the brother and sister at the front started making its way towards the church at the other end. Then God saw what was happening and turned the people into stone figures. They still stand there, frozen in time. The water is also there.  Poisonous as ever. 

Tourist information:
The place is one of the most people-friendly ones I have seen. The ticket costs only 350 dinara (the local currency) which is not much and there is plenty of space to relax. The road to Kurshumlija may be a bit of a problem as it is a bit tricky once you get off the highway. Otherwise, the place is totally worth the visit. You'll need to allow a full day for it as the place is a bit remote. 

More information, on the Djavola varos website :) 
https://www.djavoljavaros.com

The story behind the shot on Bistra Stoimenova Photography page :)

Thursday, 1 March 2018

Martenitsi, Baba Marta and the rest


If you follow my Facebook page, you have probably noticed that today is a very, very special day - 1st of march, celebrated as the symbolic coming of spring.


On this day, there is practically no one without a Martenitsa - the symbol of the holiday and the amulet for the forthcoming month. It is either a bracelet made of white and red thread or two anthropomorphic figurines (above) - called Pizho (the male one) and Penda (the female one) . Foreigners cannot escape having one of them on themselves. It is a ritual for health and prosperity and a celebration of spring and the birth of new life.

1st of March marks the turn of time and the beginning of spring. Also, in Bulgarian (and Slavic) folklore in general March is known as the only 'female' month. The reason is one - Baba Marta :)

According to folklore, Baba Marta is the only sister of the 11 month gods and is particularly angry with her two elder brothers - January and February - because during the winter they drank her wine supply. So, even though March is technically a spring month, the weather is heavily dependent on Baba Marta's mood swings. As a typical woman, she's not very constant in her favours - one day she's happy and the sun shines, the next day she's furious and blizzard comes around.

So here is some more info about what exactly is Martenitsa and why it is so important to us? 

What is Martenitsa?

Matrenitsa is a traditional Bulgarian custom - each year on the 1st of march people wear red and white threads or figures (named Pizho - the male figure, represented by a boy often dressed as a shepherd (usually made of red threads) and Penda - the  female figure, represented by a girl with ling hair, usually dressed in stylized traditional Bulgarian costume (made of white thread) to celebrate the coming of spring and wish each other health and prosperity for the upcoming year. 

Basically Martenitsa is an amulet and the figurines do look a bit like Vudu dolls to the non-Bulgarians. There is another option - a bracelet made of red and white thread people tie around each other's wrists. The name of the custom is actually the name of the amulet - that string made of red and white thread that we tie around each other's wrist or the boy and girl on our chest. 

The name "Martenitsa" comes from the Bulgarian name for March - which reads as 'Mart' in Bulgarian.


The Legend about Martenitsa - the old Bulgarian version.

As with anything in Bulgaria, Martenitsa is said to have emerged at the dawn of time - which for Bulgarians means - the foundation of the First Bulgarian Kingdom back in the 7th century AD.
There are a few legends about the month and only one about the custom itself.

Here is one of the verisons of where Martenitsa came from.

It is said that Matrenitsa dates back to the oldest times - when Bulgaria was created. That means that the custom dates back to the 7th century AD or even earlier. The most popular legend is connected to the first ruler of Bulgaria - khan Asparuh.

How Khan Asparuh probably looked like - an artist's fantasy. Truth is, no one knows how the founder of Bulgaria looked like.
According to the legend the sister of Khan Asparuh was held captive in Byzantium. At the time the Bulgarians were an intruder in the territory of the Eastern Roman Empire and even though the emperor tried to do anything to drive them away. The Bulgars (or Proto-Bulgars as historians call them) were dead-set on getting some of the territory of the empire for themselves. So the emperor decided that only a direct military conflict would drive them away. So he summoned his entire fleet, and all the troops he could muster at the moment - numbering 65 000 people in total - and he went to the encampment of the Bulgarian khan (in the so - called Onglos region - now in the Danube delta in Romania). 
Another painting depicting the battle of 680 when the Bulgars clashed with the Byzantine army
So the sister (whose name is questionable) sent a letter to her brother telling that she is alive and well and she had escaped from captivity. It was just before the decisive battle in 680 AD (when the country was established). She knew that she would get killed if her brother won the battle. However, the dove she used as a messenger was attached by a hawk on the way. The dove managed to fend off the attacher but was wounded on the way. It did deliver the letter but the white thread the sister had used to tie the letter to its leg had turned red and the other half was still white. 

Asparuh, the legend says, took the thread and tied it around his wrist as an amulet. He thought that if the dove had brough good news and survived, the thread from the letter of his sister would protect him as well. And so the Martenitsa was born.

This is one of the traditions that we consider to be truly Bulgarian. Not something we have gotten from abroad but something that is transfered from generation to generation through an ancient bloodline that goes back to the grasslands beyond the sea of Azov. So that is a ritual that we love and we want to include everyone in it. It doesn't matter if you are Bulgarian or not, if you are in Bulgaria, you HAVE to wear a Martenitsa on the 1st of March. Period.

Who or what is Baba Marta?

The wish we accompany the gift of a Martenitsa is 'Happy Baba Marta! Let you be healthy, white and red like a Martenitsa!'. That sounds like an magic spell or incantation to the untrained ear so we have to break it into pieces. 

The white and red part is connected to health. But what or who is Baba Marta????

This is a Slavic legend (the Slavs are a very big tribe that inhabits in one form or another 2/3 of Eastern Europe and they formed a large part of the population of the early Bulgarian country so we adopted some of their legends) according to which all the months of the year are siblings. All of them are male - with a great diversity in age January being a white-bearded elder and December a dashing youth - except one - March is female and since it is month number 3 - it is an old sulky granny. 


The way Baba Marta is depicted - a nice old granny that brings health and luck to children - another artist's fantasy

Hence the form of address Baba (the Bulgarian and I guess in most Slavonic languages word for 'granny') Marta (the word for March with a case ending). She is famous for her foul temper - one day it shines and it is warm. the next there is a blizzard. She is totally unpredictable - as any woman, by the way, so she is really feared. One even more ancient connection is to the prehistoric Mother Goddess which controlled the seasons was was particularly revered during and around harvest times. 


 According to a legend she is that foul-tempered because of her two elder brothers, January and February, who stole and drank all her wine in the winter. So she got furious at them and hence - the bad weather in March. 

There is a really nice Slavic fairytale about Baba Marta and the twelve months - it is a beautiful tale and it would help you get to know why we respect the granny so much.

Once upon a time in a village, there was a woman who had two daughters. One of them was her own and she loved her more than anything. The other, however, was not - she was daughter of her late husband and his first wife and the stepmother made her do all chores in the house and in the garden. While her own daughter spent her days reclining in a chair or lying in bed eating cookies, the other one couldn't sit for one second - she cooked, cleaned, went to wash the family clothes in the nearby river and worked in the garden. She knew how it feels to be freezing with cold in winter and to be hot in the summer, how it feels to be soaking wet in autumn and how the wind can blow you away. 

One evening in Januatry, the stepmother told her that she had to fetch snowdrops for her stepsister's name day tomorrow. It was so cold and so snowy that one couldn't even get out of the house without having to clean the knee-deep snow off the path and the trees could scarcely move when the wind was blowing. 

The girl in the woods - a screenshot of a wonderful Czech movie based on the tale. 
The girl was terrified - was her stepmother joking or was she serious??? In such a time she could only die in the forest - there were no snowdrops at that time - whatever you did - you couldn't find them  up until March. The stepmother said: 'Even if you die out there, there is no one to weep for you! Your parents are dead and if you come here with no snowdrops - I will kill you myself! Go and don't return without the snowdrops!!!' and she gave her a small basket and kicked her out of the house in the snow. 

The girl went out, tears in her eyes, wrapped herself in an old scarf and the wind was tugging at her clothes, putting snow in her eyes and generally freezing her up. The snow was so deep that she could barely wade through it and it got darker and darker... It was so dark that the girl could't even see her hands. So she sat on a fallen tree and started thinking - "I would freeze anyway, what does it matter?". Then she saw a light in the distance... 

She got up and started walking toward the light - climbing over fallen trees and wading through the snow - with the only hope of having that light to guide her. The light got closer and she smelled smoke. Then she stepped out on a clearing and saw a huge fire and around it - a lot of people. She counted up to twelve people sitting on stones of variable height around the fire. She looked them and wondered: "They are no wood cutters  or hunters with those clothes embroidered with silver and gold and some are dressed in expensive green velvet." She counted to twelve in groups of tree - three old, three middle-aged, three young and the last three were just boys. 

Some of the months
Suddenly the oldest man sitting on the highest stone in the group shouted: "Where do you come from and what do you seek here?" The girl showed him her empty basket and explained about the stepmother and the task. The old man frowned: "A strange idea, snowdrops in January!"

The men started talking and the only woman spoke up: "Bother January, can't we help the poor girl? She has no fault for the wickedness of her stepmother!" She was sitting just one man to the left from him and was almost as old as he was. "You are right, sister Marta." he said and turned to a younger brother of theirs a few seats apart: "Brother April, come and take my seat for an hour!"- April nodded and took the seat on the highest rock and  big staff from him and waved with it over his head. The snow around the fire started to melt and snowdrops sprang all around them. 

"Go on, girl!" April urged her. "Pick as many as you want but hurry!  The magic will not last long!" The girl did as she was told - and quickly filled the basket with snowdrops. When done she asked with awe: "Who are you???" The woman laughed and replied: "We are the twelve months, child. These are my brothers - the eldest is January, the youngest - December. I am Baba Marta - or March as you may know me - and their only sister. Each month we rotate around the fire and whoever sits on the highest stone that month rules the land. Now go back home, before you have frozen up!!!" A small light appeared and led her to her home.

Imagine the surprise of the stepmother and stepsister when they saw the girl with all the snowdrops. When asked how she found them, she just answered 'in the woods'. A few days after, the stepmother devised another plan of how to kill her stepdaughter. She urged her ti go to the woods at night but this time to fetch strawberries for her stepsister. The girl wept and begged her stepmother not to do it, but the woman was merciless and threw her out in the cold. 

This time the girl did not wander. She went straight for the little light and soon was before the bonfire of the twelve months. On the highest stone was again the long-bearded, white-haired and foul-tempered January. 

"Why are you here again?" asked January with his voice as loud as thunder. "What is it that you want now?"

"My stepmother sent me for strawberries this time." the girl explained. "If I don't find strawberries, I'd better not go back." 

"Strawberries in January?!!!" January shouted, "This is madness!!!"

Baba Marta replied again "Bother January, can't we help the poor girl? She has no fault for the wickedness of her stepmother!" 

January nodded and said: "Brother May, come and take my place for an hour." A young man sitting almost opposite January got up and took his seat and the great staff. He waved it above his head and soon snow started to melt around the fire and all around it the girl saw strawberries. 

"Hurry up!" urged her May "We only have one hour!!!" The girl ran and filled the basket and her apron with the fruit. She even ate what she couldn't carry. Then she went back home. 

This time the stepmother and sister didn't leave her alone until she told them the whole story - about the light and the twelve months sitting around a fire in the deep woods. This time, the stepmother decided to sent her own daughter out with a basket, to seek favours of the months.  She dressed her in the best clothes available - warm firs and leathers - and send her on the path described by the other daughter. 

The girl wandered around until she saw the light flickering though the tree trunks. "Why did I came to the woods" she wondered "I was fine by the fire at home but here I am, walking around and shivering". As she came close, she saw the large fire and the people sitting around it but she didn't take any notice of them - her first thought was to find the best and warmest spot around the fire. The months looked at each other and January - who still sat on the highest stone - asked her "Who are you? Where did you came from?"

The daughter didn't pay much respect to the old man talking to her and snapped 'From home, that's from where' and kept warming her hands on the flames. "Yesterday you gave snowdrops to my sister and I today I came here, following her instructions."

"We do know your sister" January replied "but we have no idea who you are. Why are you here?"
"I came for presents. I want June to fill my basket with strawberries, big strawberries. I want July to give me cucumbers and mushrooms. August is to give me apples and pears and September - walnuts and..."

"Wait a bit!" January lifted his hand. "Summer cannot come before Spring has walked her way and Spring cannot come before winter is over. June is far away and yet to come. Now I am the king and I rule the forest and everything is covered in snow and frost." 

"You are so sulky" the girl replied "I didn't come to you. You cannot expect anything good from snow and frost."

January frowned "Look for summer when winter's over!"

He waved and a blizzard formed from the long sleeve of his robe. The girl was knocked down by a gust of wind and soon was covered by snow. After she didn't come home, the stepmother became worried and ventured out to search for her daughter. She never returned and the house remained to its rightful owner. The girl grew up, got married and har children and there was no other garden in the village like the one she tended - there and only there trees would blossom first and bear fruit before anything else has started to blossom. In the heat of summer it was pleasantly chilly, in the frost of winter it was welcoming and warm. If a storm was raging, the garden was untouched. 

"The twelve months are welcome guests in her house" villagers used to say. Who knows, maybe they were right....

This one version of the tale - in the other one the stepmother's daughter argues with Baba Marta which, as the only woman from the group, is highly respected by her brothers. It is Baba Marta who is displeased with her behaviour and who urges January to punish her. 

Moral from the story - do not mess with Baba Marta because messing with her, you mess with all 12 months combined. No wonder why in Bulgaria March is considered the anomaly month - you can have temperatures ranging from +25 to -25 Celsius and any kind of weather - anything from bright sun to a blizzard. 

Martenitsa now

So far we've traced the myth and probable origins of the Martenitsa ritual but what happens to it today? Since the end of 2017 the joint application of Bulgaria and Romania put Martenitsa in the  list of UNESCO World Intangible Heritage. The custom is said to be unique for Bulgaria BUT actually there is an equivalent of it in most of the Balkan countries though meanings, looks and usage differ. One of the explanations are that the old Bulgaria was way bigger than present-day Bulgaria so traditions were passed down through generations. The other idea is that just the Bulgarian (or whoever invented it) custom was adopted by neighbouring countries because of its jolly message - 

Winter will soon be over, Spring is on its way! Baba Marta will chase away her frosty brothers and life will begin again.
Having said all that - happy 1st of March or as the well-wish for today goes:
Be healthy, white and red like a Martenitsa








Wednesday, 6 December 2017

Happy Saint Nicolas' Day! The recipe - part 2

Hello, everybody!

In the previous post I talked about the tradition behind the celebrations on 6th of December. In this post, which is going to be way shorter, I'll show you the recipe for this year. As you remember the fish is always a carp so only the other ingredients vary. In case you don't remember or you haven't read the previous post - here is some info:

So, the fish should be a whole one - not cut in pieces and when you buy it it should be with it's scales and all the organs inside it. The idea is that the scales bring in money and the whole fish symbolizes prosperity. Then, when you clean the scales, you bury them together with all the bones of the fish somewhere in the garden. Tradition says that you should fill the fish with rice - again the money connotation - and walnuts. Since you are supposed to be fasting before Christmas, St. Nicolas' day is one of the few occasions when you can eat fish - i.e. meat. Nowadays it is a wonderful time to get together with the family. 
The carp from last year but this one we are having the same recipe
Ok, you saw the idea from the previous year - radioactive St. Nicolas' day carp with rice and turmeric sauce - that recipe I'll give you another time. 
The recipe this year is a bit different - we again have rice and walnuts and a carp but it looks different:

It is a common carp stuffed with rice, walnuts, raisins and leek and puree of creme cheese, spinach and leek.

You'll need:

1 carp - around 2 kg.
3 pieces of leek
250 g. rice - white normal rice
100 g. raisins
100 g. walnuts
1 jar/packet/ whatever they sell them in your country/ of creme cheese or cheese and a lot of butter - around 250 g.
coriander - fresh - put as much as you like
black pepper
cinnamon
salt
water
cherry tomatoes - if you want to copy the flowers from the picture

How to do it?

1. OK, you'll need to cut the leek into rings and then fry it in some oil (choose the type - olive oil will be perfect but all other types will do). Then you add the raisins and the walnuts to the leek.

2.Then you add the rice and the spices - the black pepper and the cinnamon - again - put as much as you like in there.




3. So, now you have to leave it to get the rice boiled a little - not over boil it because when you stuff the carp with it and bake it it will look like a very unpleasant lump with no particular ingredients. So you boil it for, say, half an hour and you proceed to the stuffing procedure.

Stuffing of the carp

Here you'll probably need an assistant - to hold the fish steady while you stuff it with the mixture created during the previous steps. Let's however, go over some things you do BEFORE that:

1. Clean the carp - that means all scales and intestines (to do that cut the carp open and cut out the intestines you find in its belly). DO NOT throw away the scales - they have to be buried in the yard with the bones to bring good luck :)
2. Rinse the carp with cold water to get rid of the blood and clean the belly.  
3. Stuff the carp - have someone hold it open for you and you put the stuffing in. Don't worry if the stuffing is much more than the carp's belly can hold - you just put it around it in the pan/pot you'll be using to bake it in. So, after you stuff it you have to sew up the opening so that the stuffing doesn't get out during the baking process. You'll need a big needle and a strong thread to do that. 

I don't have pictures of that because I was the assistant - you see, you can't hold a camera if both your hands are around the belly of a fish.

Baking

1. After you stuff and sew up the carp you place it in whatever you'll use to bake it it - it should be big enough for the carp to lie on one side. 
2. You put all the remaining stuffing around the carp and add a bit of water - 1/2 liter or more - depends on how much stuffing you have left.
3. Put it in the oven for around 40 minutes - when it's ready it should look like this:

The spinach/leek/cheese puree

This one is the tricky part. 
So for that you'll need:

1 piece of leek
500 g. of spinach
250 g. of creme cheese (in case this doesn't exist in your country - get the softest white cheese - Feta will do - and a lot of butter and put the two into a blender)

1. Clean the spinach and cut it as if for salad. Cut the leek into rings and fry them until they show some sign of getting cooked. 
2. Put the cheese and get the blender ready - it would take a lot of time to get the creamy texture you are looking for.

3. If you are fan of fancy-looking food in you dish try this;

Get some shapes you use for cutting cookies and fill them with the puree - don't forget to put some foil underneath so that nothing leaks out.


Put the forms into the freezer for half an hour - AT MOST - I left them there for a day and they froze.

Use them as decoration.

Since I had mine frozen I used flowers made from cherry tomatoes to make up for that. They are easy to make - you just start cutting the petals from the top without cutting them out fully. When you're done with the whole tomato and spread the petals - you have a wonderful flower.



Enjoy! If you do the recipe, I'll be glad to see a picture and to read your comments on it :)

Happy Saint Nicolas day! About the day and the saint. Part 1

Hi everyone, I haven't written in while but it had been a busy time for me. 
Anyway, the topic of the following post will have to do with religion, customs and above all - FOOD!
So let's get to religion first. Who is St. Nicolas and why do we celebrate the 6th of December each year? To tell you that I'll have to tell you a kindergarten story:

St. Nicolas was born in a wealthy family. His parents loved him very much and took good care of him but they died when he was a young man. St. Nicolas had no idea what to do with all the wealth left by his parents so he left it aside for a while. He didn't spend it, but he didn't give it all away either. One day, he heard a poor man complain to a friend - he had three daughters but could not afford to pay the dowry of even the eldest so that she could marry the man she loved. The poor man was worried of what would happen to his children if they don't get married - they will be avoided by the other members of the small society, insulted as burden to them, even deemed prostitutes - for why else would three beautiful young girls stay unmarried? St. Nicolas said nothing to the man - decided that first should check the story and learn more about him. So he followed him to see where he lived. It was a poor cottage and the man indeed had three beautiful daughters. While the girls were working, they were talking about the same things - how they won't be able to marry because on no dowry. St. Nicolas decided that if he gave the money in public the man would not accept them because of pride. So he devised another plan. The following night he slipped into the poor man's house and left three purses filled with gold coins by the side of each daughter's bed. The three girls rejoiced when they found the money the next morning. They got married soon after and lived in peace and joy with their husbands. Saint Nicolas found a good way to use the fortune left by his parents - whenever he saw someone in need, he just gave the money the person needed and left it by the side of the bed of that person at night. 

So, to cut the long story short - Saint Nicolas was the prototype of Santa Claus - the two names even sound familiar. he had been a real historical figure: here is how the wikipedia article puts it: 

Saint Nicholas (Greek: Ἅγιος Νικόλαος, Hagios Nikólaos, Latin: Sanctus Nicolaus); (15 March 270 – 6 December 343), also called Nikolaos of Myra, was a historic 4th-century Christian saint and Greek Bishop of Myra, in Asia Minor (modern-day Demre, Turkey). Because of the many miracles attributed to his intercession, he is also known as Nikolaos the Wonderworker (Νικόλαος ὁ Θαυματουργός, Nikolaos ho Thaumaturgos). He had a reputation for secret gift-giving, such as putting coins in the shoes of those who left them out for him, a practice celebrated on his feast day―St Nicholas Day (6 December, Gregorian calendar, in Western Christianity and 19 December, Julian calendar, in Eastern Christianity);and thus became the model for Santa Claus, whose modern name comes from the Dutch Sinterklaas, itself from a series of elisions and corruptions of the transliteration of "Saint Nikolaos". His reputation evolved among the faithful, as was common for early Christian saints. In 1087, part of the relics (about half of the bones) were furtively translated to Bari, in Apulia, Italy; for this reason, he is also known as Nikolaos of Bari. The remaining bones were taken to Venice in AD 1100.

The historical Saint Nicholas is commemorated and revered among Anglican,Catholic, Lutheran, and Orthodox Christians. In addition, some Baptist, Methodist, Presbyterian, and Reformed churches have been named in honor of Saint Nicholas. Saint Nicholas is the patron saint of sailors, merchants, archers, repentant thieves, children, brewers, pawnbrokers and students in various cities and countries around Europe.

Here is how St. Nicolas looked like - an icon - image taken from wikipedia.org
So, on the 6th of December we celebrate the day of St. Nicolas. Originally, it was the day on which children receive gifts. St. Nicolas was the original Father Christmas - before the 1920s and Coca Cola's marketing idea. 

In many countries children do receive gifts on that day, in Bulgaria there is a different tradition. Since he is the patron saint of sailors, on that day no one goes out at sea - it is said that from this day onwards - for a few weeks up to New Year's Eve - the sea is too dangerous to go into. The traditional dish is fish - nowadays of any kind but the traditional type is common carp - guess because the fish is very common in our region. Here is a picture of how it looks like - in case you don't know:
Image taken from: http://www.outdooralabama.com/common-carp 
So, the fish should be a whole one - not cut in pieces and when you buy it it should be with it's scales and all the organs inside it. The idea is that the scales bring in money and the whole fish symbolizes prosperity. Then, when you clean the scales, you bury them together with all the bones of the fish somewhere in the garden. Tradition says that you should fill the fish with rice - again the money connotation - and walnuts. Since you are supposed to be fasting before Christmas, St. Nicolas' day is one of the few occasions when you can eat fish - i.e. meat. Nowadays it is a wonderful time to get together with the family. 

I will post a picture of the carp we ate last year to get an impression of  what the whole thing looks like:



Tuesday, 24 October 2017

Of ships and men - what is the best way to get to Crete?

As some of you may remember, the first image I chose for the opening of Culture Crossroads project was that of a sunrise. Ironically, it was another sunrise, again from Crete, that made me consider taking pictures of things around me.

The year was 2009 and I was only 17 years old, I didn't even know what to do with that Canon Powershot I had. And then it happened - I was presented with this wonderful sunrise: 


It was a wonderful image - as one fellow photographer said - you only need to be there and have something that can take images with you. 

It is still one of my favourite images, despite the obvious technical deficiencies. But I'm not going to talk about this. 

If I have to be honest - I HATE getting up early. So much so, that the only images of sunrises I have in my portfolio are taken either in winter, when the sun rises my later OR when I was really ill (and couldn't sleep) OR when I had to get off the ferry.

That leads to the main topic of this very first post - transportation and mainly, what is the best way to get to Crete. 

Since it is an island, you obvously have only two choices - by sea OR by air. In this post I will try to show you that, despite the plane being the quicker choice, you should choose the ship instead. 

Why the ferry?


If you are used to the convenience of plane travel, you'd probably think of me as an idiot for proposing you to embark a ship and ride with it for 9 hours at night to get to Crete at sunrise. And that's only because you have never been aboard a Greek vessel. My father loves to say that Greeks are born on ships which is the reason they are so perfect at navigating anything that floats. 

In a country consisting of islands only, having a boat is the equivalent of having a car. More often than not you need a ferry to go to school, work or even to the doctor. Sea is integral part of the Greek culture and as a culture trekker (as you are, I'm sure) and not a mere tourist who came for the all-inclusive at the big resorts you just need to get acquainted with that fact. Here is why you need a ferry.

While us, mainlanders flock to see the disappearing lights of Athens, locals talk on the phone, saying when they will be back or do some work on electronic devices - to them that ferry is like the bus to us.
A plane will take you from Athens to Iraklio (the capital of the island where all international flights land) in less than two hours (I think) but you will miss the experience of being on board of a Greek ferry. And yes, you need a big ferryboat to experience it fully - small boats are, well, small. 

The ferries that go to Crete though are floating cities. Being aboard is a whole new experience, especially if you, like me, come from the mainland and the closest seashore in your country is roughly 500 kilometers away. 

The ferry experience:

Nothing compares to this, trust me. Imagine having to board a ship as if taken out of this movie - Das Tramushiff (in case you don't know it, it's a German series about a cruise ship and the locations it visits). OK, now imagine having to board a ship that is twice as big and luxurious!

Another ship at the port of Piraeus - this one is medium to small-sized.
The first time I had to board a ferry was in 2009 and the funny story of that voyage can be found here: Crete Chasing the Minoans, part 1

Long story short - imagine a ship that is both a cruiser and a cargo one. The garages - several decks of them - are full of trucks and cars which enter the ship and are arranged according to a scheme. A person at the entrance will tell you where and how to park. Only the driver will enter the garage - all passengers have to take out ANY luggage they'd like to take with them on board BEFORE the car is parked there. Why? Because cars are parked very close to one another - around 20 centimeters away from each other - to avoid damage due to rough seas. Then, after the departure, the garage is locked and all cars are chained to the deck floor. Garage opens on the next morning when you have to disembark. Disembarkation is very quick - trucks go out first since they are too big and cars go next. Again, only the driver will go in. All passengers will have to exit the ship the way they entered it - through the passenger entrance. 

The insides of the ferry - I told you it looks like a hotel or a cruise ship.
Ferry tickets resemble plane tickets - they have your names on them, your ID number, the dates and the ports from-to you travel and the name of the vessel. That may sound like obvious BUT imagine being at Piraeus where the whole place is just one gigantic port with huge ferries and cruisers all over the place, leaving for destinations across the globe. You can get lost very easily since there are around 20 gates - each gate goes for different destination. At the gate, there are normally around 5 or 6 ships, all leaving for that particular place so you need to know how your vessel is called to get on it.

Gate E3 that goes fro Crete - the sign is showing which ships depart at what time for where - with names of the vessel and time of departure. Pic taken from the highway that goes around Piraeus.
Speaking of embarkation of trucks - here we are. This is another ferry, traveling to Crete. This image is from 2009 and is taken from the top deck of our ferry. As you can see, this one looks a bit small. The name of the vessel, Knossos Palace, is written at the sides of it and at the back. Same goes for the port it is registered at. Ships also have numbers, like the registration plates on cars.
When the ship leaves the shore, the real experience begins. If you choose to sleep in a cabin - which I highly recommend because you have 9 hours ahead of you and that at night so not much to do - you will be lead to the door through the tangled scheme of the deck. Each deck has a scheme, showing you how to navigate but usually you need to get it wrong a few times to get used to it. 

Top deck of one of the ferries. Things on the left are lifeboats (don't freak out, just a precaution). To get to this you should use the doors - the one with the yellow rectangle in front of it and follow the scheme. Only top deck has outside access on this ferry, each ferry differs. 
On ferries that got for Crete, reception, restaurants and shops (duty-free by the way) are always at deck 7. Garage decks are usually 2, 3 and 4. In some ferries you even have elevators to navigate between the decks. 

The wardrobe in the cabin - again from 2009, since then I've gotten used to it and now I just check if they are there. The ladder serves to those who choose to sleep on the upper bed.
The cabin is usually narrow. I really mean narrow - what is scarce on a ship is space so you'll be squeezed in - two beds on one side, one atop of another and two on the other, a wardrobe full of life jackets (don't freak out, Greek ferries are secure but life jackets are a must). There is a small table, glasses and, of course - a bathroom of your own. The toilet works with vacuum so you should NEVER EVER THROW ANYTHING IN THERE. Serious damage may follow. Windows, if you have one (window cabins are more expensive BUT the view is worth it) cannot open but the air conditioning works 24/7. Don't turn it off, even if you feel cold. Without it, you'll feel stuffy.
This is why you need a window - this is taken at disembarkation at Iraklo port. 
You can do almost anything on the ferry - you have WiFi, there is TV and phone connection - the ferry is a traveling cell of phone operators - there are restaurants and you can stay at the upper deck and enjoy the view of the mainland disappearing. I love to do the latter and take pictures of the port :) 

Shops and restaurants close at 11 p.m. to let you get some sleep because disembarkation starts at 5.30 or 6.00 a.m. and you don't have much time to fuss. Actually, the distance between Crete and the mainland is not that big BUT as a friend of mine (a Greek who was a sea captain all his life) told me "You will arrive at Iraklio at 3 a.m. - what will you do then?". So ships stay anchored at sea for two or three hours, waiting for the right time to come. Ferries usually travel together - for example, those which all go to Crete may leave Piraeus at different times but at sea will sail so that they see each other and are close enough. This is done because the waterways are marked - like the highways on the mainland AND because the other ferries are the only ones that could help in case of an emergency. (again, don't freak out, this is just a precaution.)

Tourists take pics of the huge ferry parking. Locals don't care and the crew of our ferry is on top deck giving advice to their colleagues.

This is how big a ferry can get - use the cars and the person to get the sense of scale of this thing. Usually ferries can carry around 1700 people and around 800 cars. This one can carry around twice that much. Imagine having to paralel park this!

Getting in and out of ports is a serious business - even if it is a small port - you have to be given a way by the coastguard. A coastguard boat navigated the ship inside the port to its assigned 'parking place'. In big ports, such as Piraeus, things get even more complicated with vessels coming in and out at any time and only one entrance and exit. Ships wait outside the port to be given 'corridor' and escort to the gate. Navigating through all the gates of Pirsaeus takes around 45 minutes. Parking can also be tricky since you have a small space and a big ship. One of the ferries was so big that crew from the surrounding ferries came out on top decks to shout out 'parking advice'. Yet, that enormous ship parked as if it was as small as a Mini Cooper :) 

Why are ships so important and why, after all, you should choose a ferry over the convenience of the plane?

Having said all I know about ferries, here are some straightforward reasons why should use the ferry:

  • Greeks are a maritime culture - you simply CANNOT feel the culture without ever boarding a Greek ship

I always admire the skill with which they go about their duties and how they manage to navigate the vessel. I come from Bulgaria (and Bulgarians are more of dry land people, not sea people) so to me being aboard is like being part of a ritual.

Top deck and another life boat - being aboard is a unique experience!
Again the top deck.
  • Being aboard gives you some time to relax and re-tune for the experience that is to come.
Most people come to Crete to take a rest so those 9 hours aboard are great fro re-programming your clock and relaxing in a totally different atmosphere.
  • Crete is a big island and you need a car to go around it.

This, of course applies if you want to take your own car with you - the ferry will cost more but at least you will know what you're driving. Crete is a big island and distances are huge thanks to the five mountains on the island. If you want to see the sights, you will surely need a car. Why not take your own with you?
  • Sailing the Mediterranean and arriving on Crete the way the ancients did it - by sea - is unforgettable.
To me, there's no better way to come to Crete because you have the opportunity to arrive with the new day and see the big city of Iraklo (or Chania, or any other big city on the north coast of the island where ferries from the mainland come) awaken for new life. The sights at sunrise is amazing and at some point, you feel part of the culture, not an intruder but just a guest. 

Sunrise at Iraklio port - why I managed to take this stunning (in my opinion) shot? Because I was fresh off the ferry and had the opportunity to be at the right time at the right place!

Next crossroads point coming soon!
Have any thoughts? Or ideas of what you want to read next? Write to me! 



Честит 24-ти май!

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