Culture Crossroads - Rila monastery - behind the scenes

Happy Saint Nicolas' Day! The recipe - part 2

Hello, everybody!

In the previous post I talked about the tradition behind the celebrations on 6th of December. In this post, which is going to be way shorter, I'll show you the recipe for this year. As you remember the fish is always a carp so only the other ingredients vary. In case you don't remember or you haven't read the previous post - here is some info:

So, the fish should be a whole one - not cut in pieces and when you buy it it should be with it's scales and all the organs inside it. The idea is that the scales bring in money and the whole fish symbolizes prosperity. Then, when you clean the scales, you bury them together with all the bones of the fish somewhere in the garden. Tradition says that you should fill the fish with rice - again the money connotation - and walnuts. Since you are supposed to be fasting before Christmas, St. Nicolas' day is one of the few occasions when you can eat fish - i.e. meat. Nowadays it is a wonderful time to get together with the family. 

The carp from last year but this one we are having the same recipe

Ok, you saw the idea from the previous year - radioactive St. Nicolas' day carp with rice and turmeric sauce - that recipe I'll give you another time. 

The recipe this year is a bit different - we again have rice and walnuts and a carp but it looks different:

It is a common carp stuffed with rice, walnuts, raisins and leek and puree of creme cheese, spinach and leek.

You'll need:

1 carp - around 2 kg.

3 pieces of leek

250 g. rice - white normal rice

100 g. raisins

100 g. walnuts

1 jar/packet/ whatever they sell them in your country/ of creme cheese or cheese and a lot of butter - around 250 g.

coriander - fresh - put as much as you like

black pepper

cinnamon

salt

water

cherry tomatoes - if you want to copy the flowers from the picture

How to do it?

1. OK, you'll need to cut the leek into rings and then fry it in some oil (choose the type - olive oil will be perfect but all other types will do). Then you add the raisins and the walnuts to the leek.

2.Then you add the rice and the spices - the black pepper and the cinnamon - again - put as much as you like in there.

3. So, now you have to leave it to get the rice boiled a little - not over boil it because when you stuff the carp with it and bake it it will look like a very unpleasant lump with no particular ingredients. So you boil it for, say, half an hour and you proceed to the stuffing procedure.

Stuffing of the carp

Here you'll probably need an assistant - to hold the fish steady while you stuff it with the mixture created during the previous steps. Let's however, go over some things you do BEFORE that:

1. Clean the carp - that means all scales and intestines (to do that cut the carp open and cut out the intestines you find in its belly). DO NOT throw away the scales - they have to be buried in the yard with the bones to bring good luck :)

2. Rinse the carp with cold water to get rid of the blood and clean the belly.  

3. Stuff the carp - have someone hold it open for you and you put the stuffing in. Don't worry if the stuffing is much more than the carp's belly can hold - you just put it around it in the pan/pot you'll be using to bake it in. So, after you stuff it you have to sew up the opening so that the stuffing doesn't get out during the baking process. You'll need a big needle and a strong thread to do that. 

I don't have pictures of that because I was the assistant - you see, you can't hold a camera if both your hands are around the belly of a fish.

Baking

1. After you stuff and sew up the carp you place it in whatever you'll use to bake it it - it should be big enough for the carp to lie on one side. 

2. You put all the remaining stuffing around the carp and add a bit of water - 1/2 liter or more - depends on how much stuffing you have left.

3. Put it in the oven for around 40 minutes - when it's ready it should look like this:

The spinach/leek/cheese puree

This one is the tricky part. 

So for that you'll need:

1 piece of leek

500 g. of spinach

250 g. of creme cheese (in case this doesn't exist in your country - get the softest white cheese - Feta will do - and a lot of butter and put the two into a blender)

1. Clean the spinach and cut it as if for salad. Cut the leek into rings and fry them until they show some sign of getting cooked. 

2. Put the cheese and get the blender ready - it would take a lot of time to get the creamy texture you are looking for.

3. If you are fan of fancy-looking food in you dish try this;

Get some shapes you use for cutting cookies and fill them with the puree - don't forget to put some foil underneath so that nothing leaks out.

Put the forms into the freezer for half an hour - AT MOST - I left them there for a day and they froze.

Use them as decoration.

Since I had mine frozen I used flowers made from cherry tomatoes to make up for that. They are easy to make - you just start cutting the petals from the top without cutting them out fully. When you're done with the whole tomato and spread the petals - you have a wonderful flower.

Enjoy! If you do the recipe, I'll be glad to see a picture and to read your comments on it :)

Happy Saint Nicolas day! About the day and the saint. Part 1

Hi everyone, I haven't written in while but it had been a busy time for me. 

Anyway, the topic of the following post will have to do with religion, customs and above all - FOOD!

So let's get to religion first. Who is St. Nicolas and why do we celebrate the 6th of December each year? To tell you that I'll have to tell you a kindergarten story:

St. Nicolas was born in a wealthy family. His parents loved him very much and took good care of him but they died when he was a young man. St. Nicolas had no idea what to do with all the wealth left by his parents so he left it aside for a while. He didn't spend it, but he didn't give it all away either. One day, he heard a poor man complain to a friend - he had three daughters but could not afford to pay the dowry of even the eldest so that she could marry the man she loved. The poor man was worried of what would happen to his children if they don't get married - they will be avoided by the other members of the small society, insulted as burden to them, even deemed prostitutes - for why else would three beautiful young girls stay unmarried? St. Nicolas said nothing to the man - decided that first should check the story and learn more about him. So he followed him to see where he lived. It was a poor cottage and the man indeed had three beautiful daughters. While the girls were working, they were talking about the same things - how they won't be able to marry because on no dowry. St. Nicolas decided that if he gave the money in public the man would not accept them because of pride. So he devised another plan. The following night he slipped into the poor man's house and left three purses filled with gold coins by the side of each daughter's bed. The three girls rejoiced when they found the money the next morning. They got married soon after and lived in peace and joy with their husbands. Saint Nicolas found a good way to use the fortune left by his parents - whenever he saw someone in need, he just gave the money the person needed and left it by the side of the bed of that person at night. 

So, to cut the long story short - Saint Nicolas was the prototype of Santa Claus - the two names even sound familiar. he had been a real historical figure: here is how the wikipedia article puts it: 

Saint Nicholas (Greek: Ἅγιος Νικόλαος, Hagios Nikólaos, Latin: Sanctus Nicolaus); (15 March 270 – 6 December 343), also called Nikolaos of Myra, was a historic 4th-century Christian saint and Greek Bishop of Myra, in Asia Minor (modern-day Demre, Turkey). Because of the many miracles attributed to his intercession, he is also known as Nikolaos the Wonderworker (Νικόλαος ὁ Θαυματουργός, Nikolaos ho Thaumaturgos). He had a reputation for secret gift-giving, such as putting coins in the shoes of those who left them out for him, a practice celebrated on his feast day―St Nicholas Day (6 December, Gregorian calendar, in Western Christianity and 19 December, Julian calendar, in Eastern Christianity);and thus became the model for Santa Claus, whose modern name comes from the Dutch Sinterklaas, itself from a series of elisions and corruptions of the transliteration of "Saint Nikolaos". His reputation evolved among the faithful, as was common for early Christian saints. In 1087, part of the relics (about half of the bones) were furtively translated to Bari, in Apulia, Italy; for this reason, he is also known as Nikolaos of Bari. The remaining bones were taken to Venice in AD 1100.

The historical Saint Nicholas is commemorated and revered among Anglican,Catholic, Lutheran, and Orthodox Christians. In addition, some Baptist, Methodist, Presbyterian, and Reformed churches have been named in honor of Saint Nicholas. Saint Nicholas is the patron saint of sailors, merchants, archers, repentant thieves, children, brewers, pawnbrokers and students in various cities and countries around Europe.

Here is how St. Nicolas looked like - an icon - image taken from wikipedia.org

So, on the 6th of December we celebrate the day of St. Nicolas. Originally, it was the day on which children receive gifts. St. Nicolas was the original Father Christmas - before the 1920s and Coca Cola's marketing idea. 

In many countries children do receive gifts on that day, in Bulgaria there is a different tradition. Since he is the patron saint of sailors, on that day no one goes out at sea - it is said that from this day onwards - for a few weeks up to New Year's Eve - the sea is too dangerous to go into. The traditional dish is fish - nowadays of any kind but the traditional type is common carp - guess because the fish is very common in our region. Here is a picture of how it looks like - in case you don't know:

Image taken from: http://www.outdooralabama.com/common-carp 

So, the fish should be a whole one - not cut in pieces and when you buy it it should be with it's scales and all the organs inside it. The idea is that the scales bring in money and the whole fish symbolizes prosperity. Then, when you clean the scales, you bury them together with all the bones of the fish somewhere in the garden. Tradition says that you should fill the fish with rice - again the money connotation - and walnuts. Since you are supposed to be fasting before Christmas, St. Nicolas' day is one of the few occasions when you can eat fish - i.e. meat. Nowadays it is a wonderful time to get together with the family. 

I will post a picture of the carp we ate last year to get an impression of  what the whole thing looks like:

Of ships and men - what is the best way to get to Crete?

As some of you may remember, the first image I chose for the opening of Culture Crossroads project was that of a sunrise. Ironically, it was another sunrise, again from Crete, that made me consider taking pictures of things around me.

The year was 2009 and I was only 17 years old, I didn't even know what to do with that Canon Powershot I had. And then it happened - I was presented with this wonderful sunrise: 

It was a wonderful image - as one fellow photographer said - you only need to be there and have something that can take images with you. 

It is still one of my favourite images, despite the obvious technical deficiencies. But I'm not going to talk about this. 

If I have to be honest - I HATE getting up early. So much so, that the only images of sunrises I have in my portfolio are taken either in winter, when the sun rises my later OR when I was really ill (and couldn't sleep) OR when I had to get off the ferry.

That leads to the main topic of this very first post - transportation and mainly, what is the best way to get to Crete. 

Since it is an island, you obvously have only two choices - by sea OR by air. In this post I will try to show you that, despite the plane being the quicker choice, you should choose the ship instead. 

Why the ferry?

If you are used to the convenience of plane travel, you'd probably think of me as an idiot for proposing you to embark a ship and ride with it for 9 hours at night to get to Crete at sunrise. And that's only because you have never been aboard a Greek vessel. My father loves to say that Greeks are born on ships which is the reason they are so perfect at navigating anything that floats. 

In a country consisting of islands only, having a boat is the equivalent of having a car. More often than not you need a ferry to go to school, work or even to the doctor. Sea is integral part of the Greek culture and as a culture trekker (as you are, I'm sure) and not a mere tourist who came for the all-inclusive at the big resorts you just need to get acquainted with that fact. Here is why you need a ferry.

While us, mainlanders flock to see the disappearing lights of Athens, locals talk on the phone, saying when they will be back or do some work on electronic devices - to them that ferry is like the bus to us.

A plane will take you from Athens to Iraklio (the capital of the island where all international flights land) in less than two hours (I think) but you will miss the experience of being on board of a Greek ferry. And yes, you need a big ferryboat to experience it fully - small boats are, well, small. 

The ferries that go to Crete though are floating cities. Being aboard is a whole new experience, especially if you, like me, come from the mainland and the closest seashore in your country is roughly 500 kilometers away. 

The ferry experience:

Nothing compares to this, trust me. Imagine having to board a ship as if taken out of this movie - Das Tramushiff (in case you don't know it, it's a German series about a cruise ship and the locations it visits). OK, now imagine having to board a ship that is twice as big and luxurious!

Another ship at the port of Piraeus - this one is medium to small-sized.

The first time I had to board a ferry was in 2009 and the funny story of that voyage can be found here: Crete Chasing the Minoans, part 1

Long story short - imagine a ship that is both a cruiser and a cargo one. The garages - several decks of them - are full of trucks and cars which enter the ship and are arranged according to a scheme. A person at the entrance will tell you where and how to park. Only the driver will enter the garage - all passengers have to take out ANY luggage they'd like to take with them on board BEFORE the car is parked there. Why? Because cars are parked very close to one another - around 20 centimeters away from each other - to avoid damage due to rough seas. Then, after the departure, the garage is locked and all cars are chained to the deck floor. Garage opens on the next morning when you have to disembark. Disembarkation is very quick - trucks go out first since they are too big and cars go next. Again, only the driver will go in. All passengers will have to exit the ship the way they entered it - through the passenger entrance. 

The insides of the ferry - I told you it looks like a hotel or a cruise ship.

Ferry tickets resemble plane tickets - they have your names on them, your ID number, the dates and the ports from-to you travel and the name of the vessel. That may sound like obvious BUT imagine being at Piraeus where the whole place is just one gigantic port with huge ferries and cruisers all over the place, leaving for destinations across the globe. You can get lost very easily since there are around 20 gates - each gate goes for different destination. At the gate, there are normally around 5 or 6 ships, all leaving for that particular place so you need to know how your vessel is called to get on it.

Gate E3 that goes fro Crete - the sign is showing which ships depart at what time for where - with names of the vessel and time of departure. Pic taken from the highway that goes around Piraeus.

Speaking of embarkation of trucks - here we are. This is another ferry, traveling to Crete. This image is from 2009 and is taken from the top deck of our ferry. As you can see, this one looks a bit small. The name of the vessel, Knossos Palace, is written at the sides of it and at the back. Same goes for the port it is registered at. Ships also have numbers, like the registration plates on cars.

When the ship leaves the shore, the real experience begins. If you choose to sleep in a cabin - which I highly recommend because you have 9 hours ahead of you and that at night so not much to do - you will be lead to the door through the tangled scheme of the deck. Each deck has a scheme, showing you how to navigate but usually you need to get it wrong a few times to get used to it. 

Top deck of one of the ferries. Things on the left are lifeboats (don't freak out, just a precaution). To get to this you should use the doors - the one with the yellow rectangle in front of it and follow the scheme. Only top deck has outside access on this ferry, each ferry differs. 

On ferries that got for Crete, reception, restaurants and shops (duty-free by the way) are always at deck 7. Garage decks are usually 2, 3 and 4. In some ferries you even have elevators to navigate between the decks. 

The wardrobe in the cabin - again from 2009, since then I've gotten used to it and now I just check if they are there. The ladder serves to those who choose to sleep on the upper bed.

The cabin is usually narrow. I really mean narrow - what is scarce on a ship is space so you'll be squeezed in - two beds on one side, one atop of another and two on the other, a wardrobe full of life jackets (don't freak out, Greek ferries are secure but life jackets are a must). There is a small table, glasses and, of course - a bathroom of your own. The toilet works with vacuum so you should NEVER EVER THROW ANYTHING IN THERE. Serious damage may follow. Windows, if you have one (window cabins are more expensive BUT the view is worth it) cannot open but the air conditioning works 24/7. Don't turn it off, even if you feel cold. Without it, you'll feel stuffy.

This is why you need a window - this is taken at disembarkation at Iraklo port. 

You can do almost anything on the ferry - you have WiFi, there is TV and phone connection - the ferry is a traveling cell of phone operators - there are restaurants and you can stay at the upper deck and enjoy the view of the mainland disappearing. I love to do the latter and take pictures of the port :) 

Shops and restaurants close at 11 p.m. to let you get some sleep because disembarkation starts at 5.30 or 6.00 a.m. and you don't have much time to fuss. Actually, the distance between Crete and the mainland is not that big BUT as a friend of mine (a Greek who was a sea captain all his life) told me "You will arrive at Iraklio at 3 a.m. - what will you do then?". So ships stay anchored at sea for two or three hours, waiting for the right time to come. Ferries usually travel together - for example, those which all go to Crete may leave Piraeus at different times but at sea will sail so that they see each other and are close enough. This is done because the waterways are marked - like the highways on the mainland AND because the other ferries are the only ones that could help in case of an emergency. (again, don't freak out, this is just a precaution.)

Tourists take pics of the huge ferry parking. Locals don't care and the crew of our ferry is on top deck giving advice to their colleagues.

This is how big a ferry can get - use the cars and the person to get the sense of scale of this thing. Usually ferries can carry around 1700 people and around 800 cars. This one can carry around twice that much. Imagine having to paralel park this!

Getting in and out of ports is a serious business - even if it is a small port - you have to be given a way by the coastguard. A coastguard boat navigated the ship inside the port to its assigned 'parking place'. In big ports, such as Piraeus, things get even more complicated with vessels coming in and out at any time and only one entrance and exit. Ships wait outside the port to be given 'corridor' and escort to the gate. Navigating through all the gates of Pirsaeus takes around 45 minutes. Parking can also be tricky since you have a small space and a big ship. One of the ferries was so big that crew from the surrounding ferries came out on top decks to shout out 'parking advice'. Yet, that enormous ship parked as if it was as small as a Mini Cooper :) 

Why are ships so important and why, after all, you should choose a ferry over the convenience of the plane?

Having said all I know about ferries, here are some straightforward reasons why should use the ferry:

• Greeks are a maritime culture - you simply CANNOT feel the culture without ever boarding a Greek ship

I always admire the skill with which they go about their duties and how they manage to navigate the vessel. I come from Bulgaria (and Bulgarians are more of dry land people, not sea people) so to me being aboard is like being part of a ritual.

Top deck and another life boat - being aboard is a unique experience!

Again the top deck.

• Being aboard gives you some time to relax and re-tune for the experience that is to come.

Most people come to Crete to take a rest so those 9 hours aboard are great fro re-programming your clock and relaxing in a totally different atmosphere.

• Crete is a big island and you need a car to go around it.

This, of course applies if you want to take your own car with you - the ferry will cost more but at least you will know what you're driving. Crete is a big island and distances are huge thanks to the five mountains on the island. If you want to see the sights, you will surely need a car. Why not take your own with you?

• Sailing the Mediterranean and arriving on Crete the way the ancients did it - by sea - is unforgettable.

To me, there's no better way to come to Crete because you have the opportunity to arrive with the new day and see the big city of Iraklo (or Chania, or any other big city on the north coast of the island where ferries from the mainland come) awaken for new life. The sights at sunrise is amazing and at some point, you feel part of the culture, not an intruder but just a guest. 

Sunrise at Iraklio port - why I managed to take this stunning (in my opinion) shot? Because I was fresh off the ferry and had the opportunity to be at the right time at the right place!

Next crossroads point coming soon!
Have any thoughts? Or ideas of what you want to read next? Write to me!